Putting in the fencing is one of the trickiest parts of building a new arena. It can be very difficult to rectify mistakes. If you are uncertain at any point, we recommend seeking out a local fencing contractor who can fit the fencing for you.
- Twin drum ride – can be hired with or without a driver. This should only be needed for one day to roll the arena stone.
- Post hole auger
There are many different options available, including tractor mounted augers, mini digger mounted augers and petrol two man augers.
Most tool hire shops supply the latter, but tractor mounted and mini digger mounted augers may only be available from a local fencing company.
A 300mm flute or bit is ideal.
- Cement mixer
- Spirit level
- Laser level
- String line
- Tape measure
- You may need: Shovels, shove holers, hammers, saw
Fencing preparationsThe first step is to put in the corner posts, checking your measurements as you go.
We recommend using 2 posts in each corner, creating an ‘L’ shape.
Next, use your laser level to make the fence tops exactly level. Set the level at 5’ 6” above ground level (creates a finished height of 4’ 6” – allow 1ft for build-up of stone and arena surface material).
We recommend concreting in the corner posts the day before before you start putting in your fencing. This will ensure that a line can be tightly strung between the corner posts without moving them.
To work out the required spacing between the posts, take a rail or kickboard and mark its centre point. Next, add half a post’s width on either side of the centre and make these two marks.
Now, mark half a post’s width on either end of the rail or kickboard and measure the distance between the centre and end marks (and check that both sides are the same.)
For peace of mind, deduct 10mm from that measurement (it’s easier to cut a bit off the rails or kickboards than to add a bit on!).
This is the required spacing between posts. Cut a piece of timber to that length and use it as a spacer when placing the posts.
Putting in the posts, kickboards and railsDig or auger a hole to the correct depth (see diagram below) and set a post into the hole, using the laser level to ensure it is at the required height. For subsequent posts, check the spacing from the previous post with the timber spacer.
Use a spirit level to check that the post is vertical and check that the post is just off the string line.
Fill the hole to the top with a dryish mixture of concrete – a ratio of 6 ballast to 1 cement is normal (we can supply these materials if required, please contact us for a quote). Pack the concrete down and fill the remaining space with soil.
Your gate posts need to be well concreted in at this point. We recommend concreting one in and then use the gate to pinpoint the exact place for the other as it is very difficult to rectify mistakes later on.
Once all the posts are in, cut off the excess membrane around the posts and level the arena stone between and around the posts. Use a laser level to ensure accuracy.
Next, set a kickboard in front of the posts and tap it down with a sledgehammer so that it is well nestled into the stone. Set your laser level to the top of it so that all the lower kickboards can be set at that level, with the upper kickboards placed on top.
Remember to stagger the joints between the boards for added strength.
The rails can now be fixed in place, using a spacer to give an equal gap between them.
We recommend leaving the top rail slightly below the top of the post to allow for any slight inaccuracy in the height of the posts.
Fitting the gateUsually, the gate will come without anything fitted. You will need to drill the gate in order to fit the hinges. If you are not totally confident about this, we recommend asking local fencing contractor to fit the gate for you.
Once the gate furniture is fitted, position the gate against the gate posts at the height required and levelled and then mark and drill the posts to fit the hinge positions.
Now the arena stone can be graded level (using the laser level), and then rolled with a twin drum vibrating roller. Due to the open nature of the stone, is impossible to roll the stone completely flat.
The roller will always leave small lines – these are not a problem. Continue to the final stage: laying the arena surface.